Goodbye to Namibia

Goodbye to Namibia

African wattled lapwing small
African wattled lapwing

Following two months in Namibia, on May 10 we pulled up to the Botswana/Namibian border and after about 20 minutes on each side, we were in a new country. We don’t expect every border crossing to be this smooth. Still had to request a signature on the carnet – we were ready for that. Some highlights from Namibia:

Trees. The variety of trees is absolutely astonishing. From Quiver trees to baobabs, to hook and poke acacias and enormous sycamores, Namibia is a mind-boggling forest.

white fronted bee eater small
white fronted bee eater

How absolutely black the darkness is there. One night coming back from a camp reception, even with my headlamp on I could hardly see the thoughts in my brain. The darkness sucked the light away. I found our camp just by sheer luck and managed not to break an ankle for the effort. There are many ways to hurt yourself on a trip like this.

The Himba village visit. Wouldn’t trade that for anything. Our Himba guide shared that the only thing Himba parents expected from schooling was for the kids to learn how to ask white people for water. That explained the common cry from little kids (and adults) “give me water”.

Little bittern small
Little bittern

Those loathsome crickets. Interesting at first, mildly entertaining for a day or so, then just plain disgusting. They went from brightly colored to a greasy grey as we traveled the length and breadth of Namibia, and they covered nearly all of it.  I think we finally shook them off at Eupupa Falls.

Burchell's sandgrouse small
Burchell’s sandgrouse

The army of rocks in the Palmrag Conservation Area. Red granite rocks nearly all the same size and shape, covering thousands of acres. Seemingly just waiting for time to pass and brains to develop so that they could take over the world. It will be a long wait but they have the numbers.

Rough camping at Spitskoppe Nature Reserve.  Best in scenery, with the monolithic red spires and massive boulders just the right texture for scampering on.

speckled pigeon small
speckled pigeon

Sitting amid a family of elephant in the Mahango Core conservation area. Just us, 20 or so elephant, and no one else.  Big ellies, and tiny ones, busy and placid, they were a pleasure to observe in the small park. Etosha is Namibia’s big park, but we were just as happy in the small reserves.

The Namib/Naukluft National Park, which covers huge amounts of territory, most of it flat sand with the occasional Welwhitschia plant. Dramatic in its sameness but after two days of that we were ready for the coast. And the coast, parts of it so painfully long and boring we turned around, but other sections full of life.

There is more, of course, there’s so much more. The tribes, the women (and children) carrying everything on their heads, the many many people walking down the roads. . . and on we go, into Botswana and on to Zimbabwe. Cover photo is just your average Meve’s starling.

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