The Beagle, a 2008 Toyota LC on a drift across Africa, piloted by Jim (FitzRoy) and Ann Colleen.
The Beagle, a 2008 Toyota LC on a drift across Africa, piloted by Jim (FitzRoy) and Ann Colleen.
On January 16 we drove away from our home to commence this journey and we marked six months gone a couple of weeks ago. Looking back, we are so grateful for all the assistance received along the way from friends and family. Thanks again, all of you! We miss you all and think of you often.
The driving and camping component took a month or two to fine-tune and now all that is second nature, like going home after work and hanging out in the yard. We find time for a game, cribbage or backgammon or dominos, nearly every day but all that downtime I envisioned has yet to materialize. Every single day is a production filled with a cast of characters – there’s the guys or gals at the pump station, the ladies selling produce and eggs on the road, the boss man at the campsite, the “extras” we wave to in the villages, and the occasional people we meet and share travel tips with. Emails are passed about and the list grows of people we need to visit when we get to their town. 
Jim keeps the Beagle in top shape and our gear has found a place to live that makes sense. The down comforter is one of the best purchases although it is getting warmer as we head north – we will have to find a place to stash it. The Garmin navigation device is indispensable. Some gadgets don’t live up to the task, but the Garmin is worth its weight in gold now that we’ve learned to trust it. 
The whole computer/internet/wifi/phone business runs on a whim and a prayer and Jim’s dogged persistence. Sometimes it works well. Sometimes we just drive on.
Culturally, the adjustment is more gradual. The scenes of women and children carrying impossible loads on their heads and men bicycling with equally impossible baggage (and a passenger or two) have become commonplace. While amazingly picturesque, it feels unkind to take photos of these people working so hard. 
And believe me – everyone, every man, woman and child, is working hard. It is a misconception that men sit around and watch women do all the work – from what we have seen, everyone has tasks and jobs and they do them the African way – by whatever means possible. Young men still hang out in groups with other young men – they are likely to be sharply dressed and they love a thumbs up when we go past. Young women riding bicycles are great fun to see and they too respond with a big smile when we acknowledge them. The madams and older gentlemen give a nod or a “fineandyou” – this is the reply to “hello,how are you?” You don’t have to even ask, they will still say “fineandyou”. Just like that, fineandyou. It is one word. 
Purchasing produce, food and essentials on the street is now the norm. Villages and towns look so busy and active because pretty much all the commerce takes place in stalls lined up along the road and generally speaking there is only one road. Nearly everyone responds to a smile – the only noticeable exception for this (so far) is up along the shore of Lake Mweru Wantipa, on the border with DR Congo. Here villagers appeared stern or indifferent. In this area Zambia integrated thousands of Congolese refugees in the ’80s and ’90s, giving them land and citizenship – the Zambian president was awarded a UN Peace Prize for his compassion. 
Maybe being former refugees has nothing to do with the lower level of friendliness found here, but since we are only driving through we will never know. And that is the crux of it; we are traveling and cannot stay to get to know a place, which would take years. We’ve seen many places we would like to know better but again years are needed. Just like at home, having been in one place for 30 years gives you a deep perspective. Well, at the least we are seeing what we can and enjoying every minute and engaging in conversation everywhere we go. We love how Africa works and sometimes how it doesn’t work. Here’s to the next six months.
It’s a good thing you’re blogging all of this… there is so much to see there, it would be impossible to remember it all! Congratulations on 6 months! I love your blog – I’m so glad you are doing it. You should make a book out of it when you get back…
Thanks Bobbi – look forward to sharing more stories with you guys.
Dear Colleen and Jim, ~ *Shared* on my FB ~ Awesome } building continuous memories from treasures in the here and now. Pretty incredible.
I swear Colleen, you should write Travelogues, ya think?
Growing up i loved reading “Bring ‘um back Alive, Frank Buck” and a host of similar African adventure stories. I had no interest in “Tarzan, the Ape Man” ~
I’m wondering if you are situated in a place to keep the night flying insects from inhabiting your computer screen? i wear a headlamp and even with it off they swarm the screen…the 3 or 4 flies in my }swarm aren’t enuff to elicit a redistribution tool, i just tolerate them. I would guess it’s considerably more robust where you are. I wear a headset (love Pandora) cuz i have this intense fear of insects flying into my ears. It’s not pleasant. With a headlamp i do attract their attention as i search for earwigs ~
I think i have the upper hand on these earwigs using Home Defense granules; where for years spraying like dad used to do with the hose and a jar of repellent at the nozzle, was for me a continuous Epic Fail compared to the results i have achieved with the granules; i’m astounded by.
Getting ready to take the G-kdz camping 16, 17, & 18th ~ We three have been doing this annual camp out the week before school begins. The thimble berries are ripe, and they get to sit in grampah’s lap ‘n drive from berrybushes along the road. We jump out pick a mess of berries, switch drivers and head on to the next batch of berries along this dirt road in the Beartooths outside of Red Lodge where Jennifer rode this raging mechanical Bull in her wedding dress!!! Enuff theatrix, Sophie and Bel both know how to cast, catch, clean and cook the fish themselves.The wildlife is good too. Moose, Owls, Bats…
The Billings Aquatic Club won the State Team trophy, Best boys, girls and coach of the year! Go BAC
I’m fixing to produce another Tee Vee show. I did one for a year on Public Tee Vee called: “The Wobblies” It was great fun !!! so now to do this one for the Sandstone Gallery ~ the Advertising cost is hard to beat $300 for 52 – 28.5 min segments, taped in studio.. not sure of the name yet? We have a new Gallery sign! The Gallery is supposed to have a new paint job that includes the whole bldg but WTF ?The Bldg has been power washed and sanded, no paint yet ~ We have that ‘Stressed Look’ physically and Art Walk is just 2 days away and no Paint…oh well.
We have our much needed and wanted interior Remodel finished ! Looking forward to Art Walk this Friday. i know Jennifer has been madly glazing or glazing madly?
In case you didn’t know i recv’d the cards in DC and lots more awesome cards since and a card a week ago with birds ~ Wow! i’m just so impressed with Evolution. Such diversity ~ Do you have Sibley’s in Africa or similar? what books are you using to do such a great job of identifying ~ and knowing what you’re after. It seems that the birds are so diverse there’s not many if any that have a similar looking friend?
i’m wondering if you are getting any of my Bird photos in your Email. If not, please send me the best Email to reach you.
I love all the animal pix ~ It was awesome! the way you coaxed the elephants to pose like that, ‘Circus Girl’ ~ i remember watching ‘Circus Boy’ in North Hollywood before you became famous in the movie ‘Giant’ Also a movie i should go back ‘n watch “Elephant Walk” with Elizabeth Taylor. It had a Lot to do with Elephants…in the end this herd of elephants crashes thru plantation barriers and into the main house crushing everything not sure why ~ i’ll see if there’s a way to view it.
I’m toast, turning in. I wonder what you sleep on? Air Mattress? i’m retiring to my Air Mattress ~ not just one of those cheapy air devicess. This one Jennifer bought me. A real fine one that just needs air once in a while ~ and i’m off to my cloud~ wishing you and Jim, pleasant dreams and safe travels.
Lotsa Love Sis,
Will
Kathy says: Congratulations on your 6-month mark! I have a feeling you will be totally bored when you come home.
Your writing and photos are so well done, I feel like I’m right there with you.
Thanks, Kath!
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