The Zambian president, whose name is unimportant, declared a national emergency and instated martial law and curfew a few days prior to our departure. The US promptly issued a travel warning for tourists and many bookings were subsequently cancelled. The US does not want to be seen condoning undemocratic behavior, at least in countries where we have absolutely no interest whatsoever.

Why did the Zambian government risk bringing international condemnation? It is not likely an attempt to freeze the movement of the opposition – limiting the opposition is so easy for the president there hardly a need to go to the mattress. Meanwhile people in the countryside are indifferent. What does it matter if local travel is curtailed after dark – who goes out after dark? Road blocks are nothing new. Only in Lusaka was there much notice of the “emergency”. Expats told us that they were roadblocked on the first day of martial law and that there were bakkies with young national service guys driving around hooting and hollering and making traffic worse than usual. They said the next day, it was back to business. Unless you are a tour operator and your bookings just cancelled, that is. Zambia’s many problems; deforestation (the worst in the world), poverty, illiteracy, won’t be helped by these power plays. This current government is not the one who welcomed Congolese refugees and gave them land and citizenship. Those days are over. This government did, however, pass out free chitenges, the fabric sheets worn by most women, with the presidents’ face printed full size directly in the center. Women wear them with his face squarely on their butts. It is hilarious, can you imagine such a thing in the US these days?

Roadblocks are a part of life in Africa. “Where are you going?” “Where have you come from?” I’ve ceased being amused by these questions and now find them annoying and intrusive. Nothing to be done about it though – the height of stupidity would be to argue or be belligerent. More fun to just make up answers. Many policemen ask how they can get to the United States – they are unaware of how difficult that is. We don’t tell them, no need to be mean.

In the end though, Zambia has the most wonderfully friendly people and we loved our time there. The villages  shine with brightly painted houses, potted plants and gardens even in the midst of poverty. On Sundays villagers dress up for church or socializing – the women are just lovely anyway and on Sundays they are gorgeous. The roads are pretty good – although maybe take a boat into Isanga. All the waving children, the hellos and fineandyous, feel genuine and sincere. A nice fishing village on Lake Tanganyika could be Eden.