Did you know that, contrary to what you’ll read on the web, you cannot extend a 30-visa in Mozambique? Not at an immigration office, not at a border, not at all. Unlike every other African country we have visited, Moz immigration requires that a tourist leave the country then return and purchase a new visa. And not just leave for an afternoon, either. Two days at least. This is a stunning revelation. Go to Zimbabwe, they told us, it is only an hours drive to the border. As it was still fairly early in the day, to the Forbes/Manica border we went, only to be told the same thing. We would have to leave Moz. Now.

So why not just strike out for Vilankulos and the coast, you ask, spend a few days at the beach first?  Yes, well, on another planet that might work.  But even with over a week left on our current visa, there is nowhere in this mangled country we can drive to and still get back to the Forbes border within nine days. The roads, and I’m being kind, are barely paved. The potholes have potholes. Smaller holes they fill with sedans. Just getting back to Gorongosa National Park, where rain has effectively closed the game drives, is at least a two day drive, with no guarantee that we’d even see that park. We pull back to the last Mozambique campground before the Forbes border and take a breath – time to ready ourselves for Zimbabwe.

Casa Msika camp is so welcoming and friendly we stay for two days – lucky for us we have the time. Christopher, a young and dedicated Zimbabwean man, is the game warden of the small reserve and he leads us on a trek to find the resident giraffes, one of whom is about to give birth. She is very calm as we watch her but she isn’t about to birth her calf in front of us! There are zebra and wildebeest out and about; the reserve is hoping to boost their game animal numbers, perhaps even provide creatures to help replenish Gorongosa’s herds. Back at camp, a family from Zimbabwe arrive on their way home from the coast and we dine with them. Their enthusiasm is infectious, they love Zim’s Eastern Highlands and Vumba mountains. Off we go the next morning, to the bird-watching paradise and cloud forests of eastern Zimbabwe. We will be back to Moz soon enough. Gorongosa Park will be dry. The beaches will still be beautiful. It’s just a matter of time.