Huge round granite mountains line the road to Springbok, oceans of granite that appear to be the mantle of the earth holding down the roiling magma underneath. This is not so far-fetched a feeling; Africa is the oldest and most stable land mass on the planet. John Reader’s Africa: Biography of a Continent is a fantastic resource and we carry a copy in the kitchen. He talks about how 3,600 billion – yes, billion – years ago rock was formed that today is the mantle of earth under Africa.

And yep, Springbok is hot. We have no way to measure the temp, but we aren’t out of line to assume it is well over 90, pushing 100. There are people everywhere on the streets; big Afrikaner farmers, fishing guides, laborers, ladies, kids; it is Friday midday and the grocery store is absolutely packed. Everyone is pleasant and the different clothing, hairstyles, skin colors, and languages make grocery shopping feel like a big carnival.

We fill the Beagle with water, food, and fuel, and drive around looking for a shady spot to put all the provisions away. Judging by the day the solar shouldn’t have any problem keeping up but we are filling both fridge and freezer, giving them a workout by heading off into the blazing interior. The surface of Mercury aspires to be this hot. The landscape is a unforgiving as can be but of course there are goats – and surprisingly, horses. Lots of horses, and of all colors. Who’d’a thought?

                                                         We find an oasis at which to camp, actual green grass next to the river. Not a soul around. It’s hot and humid. On day two a herd of goats comes by to drink, followed by the three herd dogs . As dog besotted as we are, and as cute as they are, there’s no petting them. We didn’t get the rabies vaccine. Fireflies come out on the last night – what a marvel they are. Did you know many different species communicate by their blinking lights? Fantastic.

Baboons wake up late. Somebody is grumpy and picks a fight, the screeching and howling is a caveman’s nightmare. Birds are more subdued. It’s a special place, happy to have found it.