Pofadder is pronounced like the snake, Puff Adder. A nasty, disagreeable snake, common all over southern Africa and the snake most likely to bite to people. Garden workers are often bit – this snake doesn’t even pretend to avoid people. Pofadder the town is small and has a desert charm. Lots of mining in the area; South Africa is endowed with great mineral wealth, little of which seems to trickle down.

Fueling up in Pofadder, the shy attendant smiles and says “we don’t get much rain here” – her words and voice making me think she’s lived here all  her life and has never seen rain. We skirt the huge black clouds; the front of the storm creates a horizon wide dust tornado and instead of a bath the Beagle is drenched in sand. Driving lights are necessary. Plans need to change, there’s no camping in this sandstorm. We aim for the Kalahari Guest Lodge and Camp in Augrabies town and the skies open up as we arrive. Camp is up and dinner (soup again) is ready in 20 minutes. It’s a nice place, for being right on the road. And it’s been there a long time, judging by the size of the plants. There’s two dogs, a cat, and the camp manager has a gorgeous orange parrot on her shoulder. We are the only ones there.

Should we go into Augrabies National Park? The fine folks we met on the western shore said the Vervet monkeys were bold and intrepid – nothing was safe from them. Jim has a sling-shot – Gary told him he’d need to pack his own rocks as well, there weren’t any left at the Augrabies campsite. Vervet moneys are notorious in camps and towns all over the southern hemisphere. The males have turquoise blue balls but the cute factor ends when they make off with dinner.

There is a hot springs on the map. Can’t resist a hot springs even when it’s 88f out and about the same in humidity. We skip Augrabies and head that way.