We call ahead and ask about road conditions to this hot springs after the monster storm – the connection isn’t great but how bad can the road be? We’ve been driving up river beds posing as roads as it is.

This area is known as the Green Kalahari and agriculture makes good use of the Orange River. If you guessed they are growing grapes, you are so right. The Orange River is the eighth longest river in the world and it seems every drop is feeding vines. Many signs read “Empowerment Farm” and I’m curious as to who is being empowered. And what will happen when such a huge monoculture is struck by disease or when the grape market does a dive. Or as Jim comments, when the water dries up. Meanwhile, there is plenty of water today.

Someone is looking out for the Riemvasmaak tourist district, it’s plain to see. The road is nicely graded and then turns to pavement for a short way into the town. There are well-tended gardens, a large new clinic, a school, and fresh paint everywhere in a town of maybe 500 residents. Still, there is no real grocery store. Kids ask for food. We buy rocks from them and hand out granola bars.

Following the signs to the hot spring, we go deep down into a canyon and meet up with Henry and his friend – these are the “guys” at the springs.They tell us we have to drive across the Molopo River, running now for the first time in two years, pouring red mud over the rocks. For a river crossing it isn’t too severe and by the next day the water has stopped running.

The hot springs themselves are simply perfect – clear water, not a hint of sulphur and the temp is 90+, ideal for soaking. Three pools are developed and one is hidden in the rocks with cooler water. The stars are superb, the hooting of an owl echoes up the red walls, and we are all alone.