Wild Dogs

Wild Dogs

dogs smallIt would be painful to leave Africa after all this time without seeing wild dogs. Their appeal is obvious, the beautiful colors of their coats, the giant ears, and just the fact that they are dogs makes seeing them a top priority. But finding them is the difficult part; as said, the Kruger is huge. Cursorial hunters, the dogs hunt by running down their prey and running is done early in the morning and evening. The rest of the time, they lay in shade; down in the grass they are nearly impossible to spot. What might give them away is the flicking of their white-tipped tails and their big ears.wd 3 small

And so it was that we came upon a vehicle parked beside a main tar road at about 1pm on a very hot day. We coasted up behind them and turned the engine off. (BTW, there should be a special place in hell for those who leave their engine running at sightings). Not 100 feet off the road, laying under a thorn bush, there is something . . . and the flick of ears and tails gives it away. Wild dogs. OK, now yes, we can say we saw wild dogs – but as you can imagine, just seeing them laying on twd 2 smallhe ground is not exactly optimal. They aren’t doing anything. We watched and waited but it is so hot – we take a chance and head back to camp for lunch after marking the sighting on the GPS. We’ll come back soon, with any luck they will still be here.

Afternoon drives are tough. You can only go so far before you must turn around in order to make your gate before it clowd 1 smallses. The dogs are at the far end of the distance we can travel. We park in same spot and patience pays off. As the air cools and the shadows lengthen the dogs perk up – it is action time. The two groups of animals, about 20 feet apart, burst into a frenzy of greetings as though they hadn’t seen each other in years. Yipping, laughing, running circles around each other, they are a joy to watch. Their posturing and submissive behavior comes across as hugs and kisses, to anthrophomorphise (again). They shove and tackle one another for a time then drop to the ground apparently exhausted by all the sociality. What a siwd 4 smallghting for us dog-lovers, one we will never forget. To top off our efforts, as we drove back to camp (with just enough time to make the gate) Jim spotted two Honey Badgers in the grass! Another creature we so wanted to watch. We are the last vehicle to pass into camp, fully satisfied with a spectacular day in the Kruger.

The Kruger

The Kruger

zebra smallWe parked underneath the zebra carcass high in the tree, and we waited. It was 6:30am and we got up at 5 to be in place here, hoping to see the male leopard who’d stashed the zebra up the tree. Imagine a cat carrying a small horse into a tree – yes, leopards are amazing. This leopard is shy. After 30 minutes or so, I see him approaching in the long grass. He comes into full view and stops, eyeing us even though we are not in his way. Still, he backs off and lays down and it is unlikely he will rise again, so on we go. Welcome to morning in Kruger National Park.

sunrise smallKruger is the crown jewel of South Africa’s parks, taking up nearly a quarter of the county of Mpumalanga, with the Oliphants River splitting the park into two zones. North are the Mopane trees, south are Marula trees, more or less. As mentioned previously, this is our third visit; it takes many days to see a park this big and we are barely scratching the surface. This final visit is a long-awaited homecoming of sorts for me – we are staying at both Satara Camp and Orpen Camp. Orpen and Satara have permanent waterholes and at those waterholes are webcams broadcasting 24/7; whatever happens here, people are watching all over the world. I was one of those “webcammers” for years; to be here in person is truly a privilege.coucol small

Orpen is a very small camp, only 15 units, and fully fenced for what it’s worth. Animals that want in can get in somehow and this hyena in the cover photo wanted inside. It did not end well. We were just sitting down to eat lunch when the hyena ran past our deck, quickly followed by the camp ranger carrying a rifle and a sidearm. The ranger fired a warning shot and the hyena raced up to the deck next to us. Needless to say we stepped inside and shut the door – hyenas are not to be trifled with. Once the creature had crossed the line, aggressively running into the camp laundry and scattering the staff, the ranger had no choice but to end the conflict. The resident honey badger is slightly less trouble, only coming into camp kitchens at night to raid the garbage, but still not a creature to mess with. And as anyone who has seen the YouTube video knows, honey badger don’t care.