Nature Reserves are common here – many offer camping, chalets, bird hides, guided tours and even popular restaurants. We have noticed that NRs tend to be better cared for than the public sites. Private monies see to it that these places are built to last.

Witsand (White Sand) NR is in the southeastern corner of the now green Kalahari about 2.5 hours from Upington. Its extensive sand dunes start out red and are leeched to shades of light pink and white. The area has a long history with the aboriginal people and the more recent farmers and cattle grazers – and that’s because it has water. In the driest climate imaginable, Witsand is graced with a very high water table due to the dunes being nearly 70 km deep and able to hold the H2O. People could scrap a shallow hole and delicious water would come to the surface. Donkeys were used to grind larger ponds for cattle and the land quickly became a favorite of the Boers. Naturally the British wanted it as well and skirmishes gave rise to rock walls built for defense in the Boer wars. The water was worth any fight; it tastes fantastic, a delightful surprise for us.

We call ahead to ask about camping, no problem at 600R(rand) for two nights. When we arrive the receptionist says no, it is only 400R – the camping is free, we only need pay the conservation fee. Far be it for me to argue. There are electrical hookups, deep shade and even a swimming pool. It pours rain as we choose a sheltered spot and there is one other couple camping. We settle in for the weekend.

There are no large predators here, no lion or leopard or hyena. Elephant and giraffe once roamed but no more. That’s ok – there’s colorful insects, tortoise, monitor lizard, ground squirrels, springbok, oryx and other creatures. And we can walk anywhere – there is even an awesome bird hide. The other campers leave and we once again are all alone, even to where we swim naked in the perfect pool. It’s hot, why not?

Before we leave, we drain our water tank of the treated Upington water and refill it with the delicious Witsand water – we will miss it when it’s gone. And we’ll miss Witsand too, what a wonderful spot for the time frame we needed to fill. Now it’s back to Upington and the fateful dental appointment.