As the Beagle is being prepped for the next adventure in a new country we look back with joy upon our time in Malawi. We’ve met some people who have hurried through Malawi, not enjoying the place and as I’ve said, we too were a little put off at first. In hindsight it is obvious that our mad dash across muddy Tanzania brought us to Malawi in a frazzled state. The laid-back attitude here took a day or so to process. Now we can hardly bring ourselves to leave. The people, the villages and markets and 
of course the Lake of the Stars, have charmed and delighted us. 
At Dedza Pottery, just south of Lilongwe, Peter led us on a tour. They make their own clay there, he explained, both the red clay for outdoor pots and clay for tableware. What a lot of work it is to grind the quartz stone down to a powder – I can only imagine how noisy it is as well. Making clay is a huge process! Local artists design and paint the wares. This giraffe vase is being brought to life by a man who simply dreams up his pieces much like the woodcarver who brought the 
chameleon alive. Trouble is, 
this gentleman will retire and the Pottery managers are hard pressed to find someone to replace him. But that is not his problem, he just smiles when we exclaim how beautiful his work is.
A highlight of Malawi, and of the entire trip so far, was the time we spent camping with our friends Jared and Jen. We celebrated Jim’s birthday together, complete with chocolate cake – Jen told me not 
to show the cake to Jared, he would just want her to bake one for him. Too late! Hours were spent visiting, playing bao and generally enjoying each others company, finally parting ways 
at Cool Runnings on Senga Bay. Our African adventure is richer for having met them.
James and Rudolph at Steps campsite added much to our Malawi experience by teaching us to play bao. The beach boys at Fat Monkeys on Cape Mac were awesome as well, especially Iman who kept me supplied with his best stuff from Nkhotakota. While some
campsites warn guests against using the beach boys for activities and such, we would go out on the beach and find someone who could get us what we needed. Fresh fish filleted right on the spot, avocados or whatever; we love dealing with the boys. Kennedy at Fat Monkeys told me I was like his mother; I kindly suggested he say sister and from then on we’d call each other bro and sis. We will miss all of them.
From early December until now we’ve been riding out the rainy season on one beach or another, salt water and fresh. Four months have passed quickly; who knew when we started out from home that this part of our plan would work so very well. Now we will be on the move much as we were in the beginning. It should not be hard to get back into move mode, we are itching for new places but if we must return to Malawi for whatever reason, we won’t mind one bit.
Malawians are at it again, confounding generalities preached about them by others. They constantly amaze us with their unabashed friendliness and ingenuity. It was a young Malawian village boy who created a working lightbulb and electrical hookup from a windmill made of scratch materials he’d collected. Yes, Malawians can make a plan. Even as our first impression of the country was a bit lukewarm, the Lake casts a magic spell over its guests. We couldn’t have known without taking the time; all the more reason to settle down for a spell (in any 
country) and discover for Malawi for ourselves.
Everyday dealings with Malawians are such a pleasure. If we attempt any greeting in Chewa they really go crazy – instantly switching to Chewa as if we understand more than three or four words. Sit down at the Bao board and you’ll quickly be surrounded by players advising you which move to make – natives learn to play the game as little kids. Bao is meant to be a fast-paced game so 
when muzungus play, with our fat fingers unaccustomed to picking up little seeds or marbles, we really slow things down. Malawians are counting six or eight moves ahead and sowing their seeds so fast you can hardly see their hands. It will take time to become confident at Bao but time is on our side.
Back in April, in Namibia, we met up with Jared and Jen Simpson from Portland Oregon. They are overlanding Africa in their awesome customized Jeep that 
they brought from home – nice! We touch base from time to time, and somehow managed to cross paths with them at Fat Monkeys on Monkey Bay after nearly a year. For several days we had a proper visit, sharing stories and good laughs while becoming better acquainted. A snorkel trip to the island was a blast – the beach guys do a tasty grilled fish lunch while guests relax on the sand. . . in the shade.
Jared and Jen are on their way north after many months in southern Africa and Madagascar – good stories there – and I found myself a bit envious of their route. To be on the 
way north with all its wonders still to be seen – yes, what a treat Jared and Jen are in store for. And although we are headed in a southernly homeward direction we are far from finished with Africa. There’s still a bit more of Malawi to explore. Becalmed on the lake with plentiful sunshine, cool breezes, and a resident monitor lizard who visits in the morning, we will be here a couple more weeks. Then we will be ready to tackle Mozambique. Meanwhile let’s play Bao.
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