While tramping through the Kibale forest the emphasis was on primates. Birds could be heard but it takes a concentrated effort to see them and not something to combine with a chimp trek. However, not once did anyone mention snakes. I know I never gave them any thought, while following Toti and Black and the rest of the chimps. So imagine the feeling we had when we found this creature. It is a Gabon viper and it lives in the forest alongside the chimps and birds. Also called the Rhino viper because of its horned head, it has the longest fangs and the highest venom yield of any snake. Any snake. Anywhere. And here it is, freshly squashed in the road with the eggs it would have laid scattered about its body. Holy cow! (or words to that effect). We’ve never seen anything like it and I for one am glad we saw it after spending the day in forest. We did take another photo but really, it is too graphic. Some things are better left to the imagination.

We found the snake on our way to the Bigodi Swamp where locals lead birding walks into the swamp (and there are many snakes). This community effort has been ongoing since the Kibale was gazetted. Cottage industries have sprung up around the Bigodi, there are craft shops and a new restaurant, as well as a museum showcasing Bantu cultural items and offering village cultural walks. The museum is run by Jared, our chimp guide – as I said there is little he doesn’t know about the area and he has created a terrific cultural center. There is so much to do in Kibale and the camping is inexpensive – we stayed four days and did it all.

Owen is my birding guide in the wetland and while we did not get an early start we still saw plenty of creatures. The African Blue Turaco is a regular in the swamp and so is this African Dusty Flycatcher. Primates live here as well and the chimps often visit although they do not stay long. Baboons are a problem, they rob the nearby fields. This Grey-cheeked Mangabey looks like it has tumors but actually he is storing food in his cheeks for later. Owen shared that he doesn’t like the Mangabey “because he is grey.” Owen much prefers the striking Black and White Colobus. Yes, the Mangabey is unattractive but they are really smart for what that is worth; I thought the Mangabey was a cool guy, to use Jared term for primates he likes.

Back at the cultural center my continuing search for chameleons was rewarded with this fellow. He is shedding his skin – fascinating that he is even more camouflaged  than ever with his skin flaking off. He matches the color of the Yellow Oleander branch so closely he was difficult to locate after I put him back on his perch. Lunch and a guided tour of the cultural museum rounded out the last day in Kibale Forest National Park. Uganda has done a terrific job with this park and the locals are benefiting. Now it is on to Murchinson Falls and the Nile River.