As the Beagle is being prepped for the next adventure in a new country we look back with joy upon our time in Malawi. We’ve met some people who have hurried through Malawi, not enjoying the place and as I’ve said, we too were a little put off at first. In hindsight it is obvious that our mad dash across muddy Tanzania brought us to Malawi in a frazzled state. The laid-back attitude here took a day or so to process. Now we can hardly bring ourselves to leave. The people, the villages and markets and of course the Lake of the Stars, have charmed and delighted us.

At Dedza Pottery, just south of Lilongwe, Peter led us on a tour. They make their own clay there, he explained, both the red clay for outdoor pots and clay for tableware. What a lot of work it is to grind the quartz stone down to a powder – I can only imagine how noisy it is as well. Making clay is a huge process! Local artists design and paint the wares. This giraffe vase is being brought to life by a man who simply dreams up his pieces much like the woodcarver who brought the chameleon alive. Trouble is, this gentleman will retire and the Pottery managers are hard pressed to find someone to replace him. But that is not his problem, he just smiles when we exclaim how beautiful his work is.

A highlight of Malawi, and of the entire trip so far, was the time we spent camping with our friends Jared and Jen. We celebrated Jim’s birthday together, complete with chocolate cake – Jen told me not to show the cake to Jared, he would just want her to bake one for him. Too late! Hours were spent visiting, playing bao and generally enjoying each others company, finally parting ways at Cool Runnings on Senga Bay. Our African adventure is richer for having met them.

James and Rudolph at Steps campsite added much to our Malawi experience by teaching us to play bao. The beach boys at Fat Monkeys on Cape Mac were awesome as well, especially Iman who kept me supplied with his best stuff from Nkhotakota. While some campsites warn guests against using the beach boys for activities and such, we would go out on the beach and find someone who could get us what we needed. Fresh fish filleted right on the spot, avocados or whatever; we love dealing with the boys. Kennedy at Fat Monkeys told me I was like his mother; I kindly suggested he say sister and from then on we’d call each other bro and sis. We will miss all of them.

From early December until now we’ve been riding out the rainy season on one beach or another, salt water and fresh. Four months have passed quickly; who knew when we started out from home that this part of our plan would work so very well. Now we will be on the move much as we were in the beginning. It should not be hard to get back into move mode, we are itching for new places but if we must return to Malawi for whatever reason, we won’t mind one bit.