Liuwa Plain is Zambia ironed smooth, a three-day size flood plain dotted with waterways and pans. Objects are distorted by the flatness. It is hard to tell if that dark spot is a wildebeest or a buffalo. Or just a big weed. To get into the park we cross a short ferry with the Beagle while the many locals use the mokuros, transporting everything from suitcases to jerry cans of fuel. We see only one other couple in three days, Jo and Robin Pope. Robin is a famous safari guide and birder here in Zambia and Jo is an illustrator (she likely does other things too, but we didn’t discuss it). They live in Lusaka and know this country well. I tell her that it appears things haven’t changed much since we visited Zambia almost a decade ago. She had a laugh and said it hasn’t changed at all in 30 years.

People still live an extremely simple life in the country. They worship at the holy church of charcoal. When you read about deforestation for charcoal, this is what they are talking about. Bag after bag, truck load after truck load, the forest is being cut down for the energy to cook porridge. There is an unimaginable amount of charcoal being sold by the side of the road. Is there an alternative? Yes, there have been many clever inventive ways to reduce or replace charcoal use. Will Zambia adjust and change? Change takes a monumental effort and at least three generations; as we have heard from knowledgeable people, Zambia hasn’t changed much in 30 years. So, no, change isn’t coming anytime soon. Churches and orphanages are still present in every town but in this country charcoal is the real king.