210 million years ago (!!) in the upper eastern corner of the Limpopo region where Zimbabwe, South Africa, Botswana and Mozambique meet, Plateosauraus roamed, one of the very first plant-eating dinosaurs. Long after these biggest of all beasts disappeared, others found this area to their liking. There must have been something special here, I think; the land has been inhabited  through the dinosaurs, the Stone Age and the Iron Age. The landscape of red rocks, mixed grasslands and rivers supported thousands of people and a ruling class was established on a hilltop high above the common folk. Exotic goods from Arabia, India and China were traded for, and fine craftsman were valued.

The Mapungubwe National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Cultural and Environmental site. Mapungubwe, which has been known by many names, was a city of significant renown in Africa. Established governments were nonexistent on the continent, or so the Europeans perceived. Sites such as Mapungubwe and Great Zimbabwe proved them wrong.

Mapungubwe declined in the 14th century, which roughly corresponds with the decline of the  large American Southwest city-states such as Chaco and Mesa Verde. Undoubtedly climate change was the cause. Respect for (and fear of) the ancestors kept the Mapungubwe site a secret known only to the natives. But by the 1930’s local farmers had heard rumors of gold and jewels buried in the veld. Much like treasure seekers everywhere, they eventually found someone to lead them to the hilltop site and by the best of fortunes, one of these seekers was associated with a university. What luck for this important place. Without that connection the world may have never known the most wondrous artifact of all, the Golden Rhino.

Wafer-thin gold sheeting once covered a wooden carving of a rhinoceros – gold so beautiful and shiny, gazing upon it makes you realize why wars have been fought over this precious metal. The gold sheeting had been fitted over the wood carving with delicate seams. The perfectly exquisite ears were made from folded plates of gold held in place with tiny gold tacks. The wood has long since rotted away. All that remains is the gold sheeting.  It is simple and simply breathtaking. The fact that it was made by fine craftsman, centuries ago in a land once thought of as the Dark Continent, changed the perception of Africa.

Leopard and rhino spoor dotted the trail as we hiked up to the sacred hill. Our guide Cedric led us to an preserved pit where archaeologists have left a timeline of the village they excavated. Then we climbed to the hilltop where the former lords of the region resided. Cedric pointed out that it was a privilege being here, as commoners at that time were never allowed. Yes, a privilege indeed.

The Golden Rhino now resides in the Park’s museum along with beads and stone tools and other fascinating artifacts; no photography permitted. The remains of people whose bones were taken away for study have since been returned and ceremonially reburied. The National Park status protects the 30,000 hectare site, which, aside from all the cultural significance, is a world-class game park with fine camping. Spend some time at the bird hide, do a game drive or two, then take the Heritage Cultural Tour and hike up to the site of discovery. The Golden Rhino is waiting for you in the museum. It will stay here in Mapungubwe, its rightful home.